Kathmandu [Nepal], February 5: Nepal has officially imposed a ban on solo expeditions to all mountains above 8,000 meters, including Mount Everest, by amending its mountaineering regulations, according to the Nepal Gazette. The government introduced the sixth amendment to the regulations late on Tuesday, effectively ending solo climbs on peaks that exceed 8,000 meters.
The new regulations mandate that for every two members of a mountaineering team, at least one altitude worker or mountain guide must accompany them on mountains higher than 8,000 meters. This rule also applies to Mount Everest. “When climbing a mountain peak with an altitude of more than eight thousand meters, every two members of the mountaineering team must be accompanied by at least one altitude worker or mountain guide,” the provision states.
This regulatory change ensures that solo climbing on the highest peaks, including Mount Everest, will no longer be allowed. The restrictions now apply to both alpine-style and expedition-style climbers, regardless of their experience.
In addition to the solo climbing ban, the new regulations also include a hike in royalty fees for foreign climbers attempting to summit Mount Everest. The royalty fee for the spring season, which sees a large influx of climbers from March to May, has increased to USD 15,000 per person, up from the previous USD 11,000. The royalty for the autumn season, from September to November, has been raised to USD 7,500, up from USD 5,500. The winter season (December to February) and monsoon season (June to August) have seen an increase as well, from USD 2,750 to USD 3,750.
Similar fee hikes have been implemented for other 8,000-meter peaks. The royalty for the spring expedition has nearly doubled, from USD 1,800 to USD 3,000, while the autumn fee has risen from USD 900 to USD 1,500. Winter and monsoon expeditions now cost USD 750, up from USD 450.
For Nepali climbers, the royalty for the normal route in the spring season has doubled from NPR 75,000 to NPR 150,000. This revision follows Nepal’s decision in 2015 to switch from a group-based royalty system to a uniform fee of USD 11,000 per climber for Everest’s spring season via the normal route.
The new regulations also impose restrictions on family members of climbers, guides, and high-altitude base camp workers. Family members are now banned from staying at the base camp, except for a two-day stay with prior approval from the tourism department. Furthermore, high-altitude guides are now required to “self-declare” their clients’ successful summit, with proof needed in the form of original photos showing the climber’s face and mountain ranges in the background.
Other changes include an increase in the daily allowance for liaison officers and the wages for high-altitude guides and base camp workers. Liaison officers’ daily wages have increased from NPR 500 to NPR 1,600, while Sirdars (lead Sherpas) will now earn NPR 1,500, up from NPR 500. High-altitude guides’ wages have increased from NPR 350 to NPR 1,200 per day, and base camp workers will receive NPR 1,000, up from NPR 300.
In an effort to reduce pollution on the mountains, climbers will be required to bring back their waste, including human waste, for proper disposal. They must carry biodegradable bags for waste collection in the upper reaches.
The new provisions will come into effect on September 1, 2025, marking the start of the spring expedition season.