Kendall Jenner in the prestigious Pompidou Centre in Paris transformed into a twilight gallery as the lights dimmed, setting the scene for Daniel Roseberry’s latest ready-to-wear vision for Schiaparelli. Titled Dancer in the Dark, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection was a masterclass in controlled audacity, wit, and sublime craftsmanship, conceived by Roseberry as an experience akin to visiting a museum—a moment of pure, unscrollable inspiration designed to counter the “slophouse” of the digital age. The entire show balanced the house’s signature Surrealist history with a modern, kinetic energy, all set to an evocative soundtrack featuring the hypnotic rhythms of Aaliyah.
The Dress That Defined the Moment
The show’s climax arrived with the final look, modeled by Kendall Jenner, who emerged from the darkness as a silhouette that blurred the line between body and art. The piece was a floor-length gown crafted entirely from sheer black tulle, an “unapologetic naked dress” that spoke to themes of tension and fluidity explored throughout the collection. The fabric’s delicate transparency traced her form with both precision and provocation, requiring a fearlessness in its wearer. Crucially, the gown was delicately embroidered with textured polka dots made of goat-hair, adding an off-beat, tactile, and distinctively Schiaparelli surreal touch.
Surrealism, Reinvented
Roseberry’s collection—featuring a restrained palette of stark black, bone white, and crimson red—continuously explored the dialogue between reality and illusion, often drawing from the archives of Elsa Schiaparelli’s legendary collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí. This season saw reinterpretations of her famous Tear Dress and a focus on trompe-l’œil knitwear derived from Roseberry’s own sketches. By stripping the collection of overtly modern markings, he posed a question: can an intense focus on craft and historical principle create something that feels post-future? Kendall’s finale look distilled this philosophy, marrying old-world couture techniques, like the subtle feathered detailing at the shoulders, with a modern, sensual fearlessness.
The Details That Made the Look
The total look was a meticulously styled masterpiece of accessories and subtle beauty. Jenner wore matching sheer gloves, finished with a shocking red nail, underscoring the black-and-red palette. Her jewelry consisted of luminous salt-stone earrings, which, along with other glowing details in the collection, illuminated the dim runway space. Her footwear continued the house’s tradition of surrealist wit: nude leather sandals fashioned with metallic gold accents shaped like measuring tapes. This playful, sculptural hardware grounded the sheer fluidity of the gown. Her beauty look was minimal and sleek—hair pulled back into a simple bun, allowing the glowing skin, flushed cheeks, and petal-pink lips to showcase an elegance that was perfectly turned inside out. Kendall Jenner’s closing moment was a powerful reminder that imagination, for Roseberry’s Schiaparelli, is not a relic, but an essential, electrifying element of ready-to-wear.